UPPER MOUNTAIN SNOW & ICE- SEPTEMBER 5, 2023

Snow and ice is not visible from the Jackson Hole Valley floor on southern and eastern aspects; however, western through northern aspects are still holding snow and ice from this past weekend's storm. Proper gear and climbing experience is crucial to safely navigating terrain on these aspects at higher elevations. 

View from above the Lower Saddle looking south

NEW SNOW AND ICE ABOVE 11,000 FEET- AUGUST 11, 2023

Significant change in the weather the last week has brought new snow and ice to the Teton Range above 11,000 feet. Appropriate clothing and footwear should be considered when traveling into the high country. What you can see from the sunny valley floor is not representative of conditions on the upper mountain.  Crampons or micro spikes are recommended. 
photo- Exum Mountain Guides 8/8/2023

Below are the ledges on the West Face of the Grand (The OS route and descent)
8/11/2023



The west face of the Grand Teton takes much longer to melt out than other routes on the GT. Upper Exum is free from snow and ice.


UPDATE 8/11/23:  BAXTER'S PINNACLE IS NOW OPEN! 

SUMMERTIME IN THE ALPINE JULY 26, 2023




Jenny Lake Ranger Zack Little planning the next move on a Buck Mountain patrol 


Summer climbing season is in full swing.  July has been warm, and the snow and ice has been rapidly melting from the high peaks.  Many trade routes no longer require ice axe or crampons.  Big objectives such as the cathedral traverse are still holding patches of snow, ice and wet rock which require sharps and alpine skills. Afternoon and evening thunderstorms have been common, get an early start and keep an eye to the sky. Be prepared for your objective to take longer than you planned, bring a headlamp, extra food, and always pack a puffy jacket.  


Lower Saddle Weather Station is currently down, rangers are currently troubleshooting, and we hope to have it back up soon.

JULY 10, 2023

 

                Black Ice and Enclosure Couloirs  July 10, 2023

SUMMER WEATHER HAS ARRIVED-ALPINE CONDITIONS REMAIN ON THE HIGH PEAKS JULY 9, 2023

 While summer weather has finally arrived a cool and moist spring has many climbing routes on the high peaks in alpine conditions still.  It is very likely that any climbing objective above 11,000ft will still have some snow, ice or wet rock to deal with on the ascent or descent.  An axe, and possibly crampons continue to be a part of the kit.  Leaving the trailhead in shorts and a t-shirt is common this time of year but you better have warm layers in your pack as you can quickly find yourself on the cold dark side of the mountains. 

JUNE 16, 2023

!!!SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL BELOW THE LOWER SADDLE FIXED LINES!!! See "Lower Saddle Approach" for more detailed information. 

ROCK CLIMBING- JUNE 6, 2023

It's beginning to look a lot like rock climbing season. South facing routes in Death Canyon, Cascade Canyon, and on the south face of Mount Moran are dry and climbing well. Be aware of midafternoon showers and thunderstorms, as they have been passing through the range frequently this week.  Keep an eye out for ticks!


Ascend up into the canyons a few thousand feet and conditions change significantly.  Approaches and descents from just about any climb in the alpine will require some degree of snow travel. An axe, mountain boots, and crampons are standard equipment this time of year for climbs on the high peaks. 

Climbing Route Conditions

In the summer, this section provides updated route condition information for popular climbing routes and approaches in Grand Teton National Park.  

Please be aware:
  • Many of these approaches and descents remain snow-covered throughout much of the summer season.  
  • The ability to properly use an ice axe and/or crampons may be required to ensure safe travel.  
  • Consult more than one guidebook and visit the Jenny Lake Ranger Station for additional information. 
  • Make sure you know your descent route!
  • Trailhead parking lots are extremely busy places in July and August!  Expect popular ones to be full by 9:00 am or earlier!  Carpool when possible or consider procuring a hiker shuttle/taxi service from the town of Jackson to avoid frustration and causing damage to adjacent vegetation.  Camping is not allowed in parking lots.