Condition Report: There is still much snow in the Tetons and many upper elevation shaded routes are still mixed climbing. The sunnier ridges on the higher peaks are mostly dry, though boots and an axe are recommended still for some sections and for the descents. Avalanches are not out of the question. They mostly revolve around wet point releases, though a very large 6' deep plus crown released on the eastern most of the Triple Glaciers (north side of Mt. Moran) on July 4th. Snow conditions on the sunny aspects are mostly firm up until about 12,000'.....on the higher northerly aspects, the snow has yet to consolidate and postholing is the rule rather than the exception.
Photo of the west face of the Grand Teton taken 7/13/09 by Doug Workman of Jackson Hole Mountain Guides
(photo at left taken 6/23/09. The winter route up to the Lower Saddle remains the preferred route.)Grand Teton - Owen-Spalding Route- snow and ice. Renny Jackson, below, leading out on the Owen Spalding around June 8th. (Doug Workman photo)
photo above 6/23/09 details snow conditions from the Lower to the Upper Saddle on the Grand.
Grand Teton - Wall Street to the Upper Exum - mostly dry except for the Wind Tunnel. Boots still recommended as well as an ice axe for snowy sections and on the descent.
Grand Teton - Valhalla Traverse- snow and ice. (photo at right taken 6/23/09) Good indicator of cold dry snow conditions and cornices above the Black Ice. Enclosure couloir at right.
Valhalla Canyon- snow and ice.
South Teton - Northwest Couloir snow
Middle Teton - Southwest Couloir snow - axe recommended
Middle Teton - North Ridge snow and ice.
Teewinot - East Face- dry to apex. Snow with deep runnels above. A climbers descending the west side after climbing the east face slipped and fell on snow and over the chockstone, requiring shorthaul rescue on July 11. Go to SAR page for more info.
Mt. Owen - Koven Route snow and ice. Fast travel conditions.
Mt. Moran - CMC Route ice axe recommended for accessing Drizzlepus. Some snow still on the face.
Mt. Moran - Skillet Glacier - runnelled with large, deep moats adjacent to the mid-rock island.
Disappointment Peak - Southeast Ridge mixed
Disappointment Peak - Southwest Couloir (Irene's Descent) snow - axe required
Disappointment Peak - Spoon Couloir snow - axe recommended
Symmetry Couloir snow/mixed - axe recommended for ascent/descent
Safety Notice
Climbing and mountaineering are inherently dangerous pursuits. This website is not a substitute for good judgment. Route conditions and photos will be updated whenever possible, but ultimately the responsibility rests with you and your partners while in the Tetons. Please stop in and see us at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station when you're in town, or give us a call at 307.739.3343, 8-5pm MST during the peak of the summer.
