Updated August 19 2008
Grand Teton - Owen-Spalding Route
No ice axe recommended. Technical rescue August 7th of woman who lost control on the Owen Spalding rappel.
Grand Teton - Wall Street to the Upper Exum
Dry. Axe/crampons not required. 7th rescue of season on 8/7/2008. A woman lost control while rappelling off the Grand and broke her lower leg and numerous ribs. Remember that the second rappel is free-hanging- be sure that you have enough friction to keep control of your belay device! 3rd rescue on 7/8/08 was more of an assist as a 31 year old woman dislocated her jaw while yawning. No joke. Assisted down to the Lower Saddle and flown down to Lupine Meadows. 4th rescue on 7/20/08 was a body recovery from the ledge leading to the base of the Direct Exum (but beyond the initial chockstone chimney pitch.) The park news release can be found here.
Grand Teton - Valhalla Traverse
Intermittent snow conditions on traverse. Black Ice couloir is intermittent ribbons of unsupportable snow with steep loose rock. No ice in crux. Photo below taken 7/15 between NW ridge and Black Ice.
Valhalla Canyon
Some snow in upper, shady zones of canyon. Cascade creek crossable via deadfall or wading in low gradient areas.
South Teton - Northwest Couloir
Snow up to the notch. Fatality August 9th. 55 year old man fell to his death while failing to arrest a fall on snow on the south side of Gilkey Tower. Technical recovery on the 10th.
Middle Teton - Southwest Couloir (hyperlinked below for full story)
Patchy snow up the couloir 2nd technical rescue of season east of southwest couloir near the Ellingwood. Open tib/fib ankle fracture. Shorthaul victim in screamer suit.
Middle Teton - North Ridge
Dry.
Teewinot - East Face (click below for accident report)
Axe recommended. Deepening runnel from summit notch down the east face. Now a mixed rock/snow climb. Free of snow up Apex Trail. Accident occurred on east face June 24th. Woman lost her footing and tumbled 400'. Shorthaul extraction.
Mt. Owen - Koven Route
Remains a steep snow climb with intermittent ribbons of rock. Two tools and spikes make it much easier. It is possible with one tool, especially if rapping the descent. Chimney above col running with water.
Mt. Moran - CMC Route
Drizzlepuss still likely wet. Dry campsites in standard bivy site. Axe 
(Exum guide Trevor Deighton photo from ~July 7)
Heavily runnelled. Yawning moats around central rib.
Disappointment Peak - Southeast Ridge
Dry.
Disappointment Peak - Southwest Couloir (Irene's Descent)
Snow avoidable down the descent gulley. Can avoid snow in standard descent gulley for the Open Book.
Disappointment Peak - Spoon Couloir
Not recommended with loose rock in the couloir. Lake ledges arguably the recommended route.
Symmetry Couloir- Must cross 50' of steep snow up high in the couloir. Axe recommended.
Safety Notice
Climbing and mountaineering are inherently dangerous pursuits. This website is not a substitute for good judgment. Route conditions and photos will be updated whenever possible, but ulimately the responsibility rests with you and your partners while in the Tetons. Please stop in and see us at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station when you're in town, or give us a call at 307.739.3343, 8-5pm MST during the peak of the summer.
